How to Add Pockets to Any Garment
Ever felt disappointed that a dress or skirt didn’t come with pockets? Fear not because it’s straightforward to add them into an existing piece of clothing.
NB- I’d suggest only trying this if you’ve already sewn in a pocket before.
There are numerous pocket styles that you can choose to add into an existing garment, and the type you choose will depend on your skill level, and whether you want a visible pocket or not.
Patch pockets
These are probably the easiest to add, and they come in a variety of shapes including kangaroo, western style, or a simple rectangle like you’d see on a shirt.
I won’t be doing an in depth tutorial on applying patch pockets in this post, but will share a few tips.
Key Considerations:
The one thing you’ll need to consider when adding patch pockets to an existing garment is that they will be highly visible and it’s unlikely you’ll have an exact matching fabric if the garment wasn’t made by you. This does open the chance to add a contrast fabric as a design detail though.
You must however ensure that the fabric you choose for your patch pocket is the same type and weight as your garment.
So, if adding a kangaroo pocket to a mid-weight woven cotton skirt, then a heavy weight denim fabric wouldn’t work well. If the skirt is a stretch fabric, then adding a woven patch pocket may not be successful as the two different fabric types may work against one another
NB- a stretch patch pocket added to a woven garment may well work, as the garment itself is stable so the pocket fabric can be less robust. However, ensure that the pocket fabric isn’t much heavier than the garment.
In seam pockets
This type of pocket is hidden within the seamline of your skirt or dress, and although it’s a little more complex to sew than a patch pocket, it’s not too hard or complex and is a great option when you don’t have matching fabric, or if your topstitching isn’t always great.
What you’ll need-
- A pattern for your chosen pocket. This could be one you trace yourself from an existing garment that has pockets you like ( Ensure you add seam allowances!)
- Or it could be a free pocket template you’ve downloaded, eg tilly and the buttons have a free template on their site. Or it could be a pattern piece from a pattern you’ve previously made up that included pockets.
- Some fabric for your pocket with coordinating thread
- Some lightweight interfacing
- Your sewing machine and sewing kit.
Step 1: For both styles of pockets
Mark the placement of the pocket:-
If it’s a patch pocket, try placing your pattern piece in a position that you like and then marking the outer corners.
If it’s an inseam pocket place your hands in a comfortable position below the waist and mark the upper opening of the pocket with a safety pin.
TOP TIP-
Inseam pockets are often about 3 inches bellow the waistline, however if you’re tall you may want them a little lower, and if short a little higher.
Step 2: For both styles of pockets
Cut out your pocket pieces. If it’s a kangaroo patch style then you’ll only need one, if it’s a hip patch pocket you’ll need a pair, and if its an inseam pocket you’ll need two pairs.
How to insert an in seam pocket:
For this photo tutorial I have used strongly contrasting fabrics in order to show the process more clearly.
However I would suggest using fabric that is more co-ordinated for your pocket bags. This ensures that the pocket appears more hidden or discreet in the seam. As the mouth of pockets gape and stretch over time, a choice of contrast fabric will become very noticeable.
Step 3- Creating an opening to attach pocket bags
Mark the bottom of the pocket opening away from your upper marked position. This will be the width of the pocket mouth less the seam allowance. Mirror the marks onto the opposite side of the garment.
Unpick the seam in between your marks.
Use your sewing machine to backstitch the upper and lower seams above and below the new opening. This is to stop your seams unravelling beyond where you unpicked
Step 4- Preparing the pocket bags
Neaten the raw edges of the straight pocket bag edges, then neaten the edges of the opened seam on the garment if needed.
TOP TIP- It’s very hard to come back and do this later so I always neaten at this satge whenever inserting a pocket.
Step 5- Attaching the pocket bags to side seam
Unlike when you make a pocket from scratch, you will be attaching the pocket to a small opening in a sewn-up garment, so it’s easy to get confused about which piece gets sewn onto which side. It’s also easy to get the pocket bag upside down at this point. To make sure I get it all aligned correctly, I like to place the bags around the opening, so I can visualize which edges will be sewn together.
- Working on one side at a time, pin the right side of one pocket bag to the right side of the opened up side-seam, matching up the marks for the top and bottom of the pocket mouth.
NB- you will need to keep the opposite side of the side seam mouth tucked out of the way to ensure you don’t sew through both sides.
Sewing from the garment side rather than the pocket bag side, sew the pocket mouth edge along the original stitch lines.
Now press both the pocket bag and seam allowance away from the pocket opening.
Repeat the same process to attach the second pocket bag to the opposite side of the opening. Ensuring once sewn the bags will be right side together, and that you keep the previously stitched side out of the way as you sew.
Step 6- Sewing the bags together
Place the pocket bags on top of one another with right sides together, pointing away from the skirt
Pin in place, then sew from a little way above where you secured the side seam, pivoting onto the bag, around the bag and then pivoting onto the side seam below the bag. Just as you would usually sew up a pocket bag.
Step 7- Make up the 2 nd pocket on opposite side
Repeat the same process attaching the second pocket to the opposite side of the skirt
Want a printable copy? Click to download written version via button below
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