12 days of sewing: #9: Tips for sewing corduroy fabric
Beginner’s guide to sewing corduroy
So what exactly is cord fabric, and why is it so popular? this is the perfect time of year to use corduroy or cord fabric, as it’s lovely and cosy, and it’s texture feels like a warm hug.
Corduroy fabric, with its distinct ridged texture and timeless appeal, is a versatile and durable material that can be used in everything from clothing to homewares, and is a great choice for kid’s or adults clothing. Think dungarees, trousers and pinafore dresses.
However, the unique structure of cord fabric can present some minor challenges when you’re new to the fabric.
Whether you’re a seasoned sewist or a beginner, these tips and tricks will help you master working with cord fabric and create fabulous, professional-looking projects.
1-Understand the Fabric Structure:
Corduroy is a woven fabric characterized by its parallel ridges, known as “wales.” or “ribs”. These wales vary in size, from fine pinwale to wide wale, and they give corduroy its signature look and texture. Before starting your project, determine the type of corduroy you’re working with and consider how the wale size will affect your design and sewing technique.
For example, using a very large jumbo cord ie one with big wales is not the best choice for say a toddler’s dungaree as the scale will look off
Key Considerations:
- Fine wale corduroy is softer and more pliable, making it ideal for garments.
- Wide wale corduroy is sturdier and works well for upholstery or outerwear.
- The direction of the wales can impact the final appearance and feel of your project.
3- Pre-Wash and Prepare:
Many Corduroy fabrics are high in cotton content, and therefore tend to shrink, so it’s essential to pre-wash your fabric before cutting.
Use a gentle cycle and low heat settings to prevent excessive wear on the wales or ridges.
Tips for Prepping Corduroy:
- After washing, press the fabric on the wrong side to smooth out wrinkles without crushing the ridges or wales.
- Use a lint roller to remove any loose fibers or lint from the fabric surface.
- If the pile is flattened, it can be revived by gently brushing when damp with a soft-bristled clothes brush
3-Cutting out Corduroy Fabric:
The nap of corduroy—the way the wales feel when you run your hand up and down them—is a critical factor in cutting and sewing.
Think of how velvet fabric feels, the plush texture definitely runs in one direction
Always decide which direction the nap should face in your final project, as this will affect the colour if different sections have the nap running in opposite directions
Cutting Tips:
- Always use the “with nap” layout
- Lay the fabric right side up so it’s easier to see the wales/ribs and align the grainlines of your pattern pieces up with them
- Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to prevent fraying.
- Cut one layer at a time for precision, especially with thick corduroy, making sure to flip your pattern pieces after cutting the first piece to get mirrored pieces
In the image below you can see the difference between using a “nap” layout, versus a “without nap” layout
Marking Tips:
- Use tailor’s chalk or removable fabric pens.
- Mark on the wrong side of the fabric whenever possible.
- Create notches or small clips in the seam allowance for alignment.
4- Choose the Right Tools:
The ridged texture of corduroy requires specific tools and techniques to achieve clean, professional results.
Recommended Tools:
- Needles: Use a sharp or universal needle, size 90/14 or 100/16, for thicker corduroy.
- Pins or Clips: Many like to Opt for fabric clips to avoid leaving marks on the wales. If using pins then pin within the seam allowance only
- Thread: Choose a high-quality polyester thread for strength and durability.
5- Sewing and pressing Techniques:
The ridged texture of corduroy requires a little TLC to achieve clean, professional results.
Tips for Sewing Corduroy:
- Presser Foot Pressure: Reduce the presser foot pressure if your machine allows to prevent dragging.
- Walking Foot: Consider using a walking foot to feed the fabric evenly through the machine.
Seam Finishing Tips:
- Trim and grade seams to reduce bulk.
- Neaten seams with an overlocker or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
- Press seams open with a pressing cloth to avoid flattening the wales.
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By following these tips and tricks, you can now confidently work with corduroy fabric and bring your wintery sewing projects to life. Whether you’re crafting a cozy pair of pants, a stylish jacket, or elegant home accessories, mastering the nuances of corduroy will elevate your sewing projects to the next level.
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I've not only gained overall competence, but learnt better garment construction as well as new methods for altering patterns
Mandy- An elevator member
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