Want to rustle up your own bias cut top as seen on ep 1 of the Bee?
Image © Jenni Hare
Trace off the 3 pattern pieces and use the cutting layout in the book to cut out your pieces in fabric
CL’s tip- you must cut the pieces out from a single layer of fabric.
To get a perfect chevron, cut one side, then lay it onto the fabric right side up, lining up the stripes until you get a perfect chevron. Lay your pattern piece in this position upside down to cut out the second mirrored piece
Step 3- creating the chevron seam at the centre front and back
Ok, so this is the most challenging part. You will need to have cut it correctly! You will need to pin, and if you’re using a really tricky fabric like the georgette in the book, then you may want to tack! I know i rarely tack, but for this seam, you want to get it sewn correctly first time. Watch this super short video for pinning tips.
Once you’ve seamed the centre front and back. you’ll need to neaten those seams. I’d suggest either an overlocker, or a simple zig zag once seam allowance is trimmed to 1 cm. Then press to one side. If you are working with something sheer like our georgette version, then try a hairline seam like this
Step 5- Make the bias facing
This method of finishing the neckline has all kinds of names, basically it’s strip of self fabric bias, sewn into a ring, filed and pressed along the width and the sewn onto the neckline and turned all the way inside creating a clean finish at the neckline.
Home sewers are more used to a binding that’s visible, and to the method whereby there’s a fold along the either edge of the bias.
This technique however, is what you’ll see inside many shop bought clothes, as it is very hanger friendly, and gives a great finish.
Here’s a set of step by step mini vids to explain the technique.( i will edit into one video soon!)
Join the bias strip into a ring
Press the bias band in half along the length, with the right sides facing out
Mark the quarter points on the bias neckband
Pin the band to the neck, matching up the corresponding quarter mark points. Start with the neckband seam at the centre back.
Press the bias away from neckline, with seam allowance pressed flat.
Roll the neckband completely inside the neckline like a facing, and press into place, making sure not to over-stretch the curve of the neckline.
Machine the inside folded edge of the bias, ensuring your stitches are an even distance from the neckline!
Step 6- hemming the armholes and the lower edge
There’s a 1 cm hem allowance allowed, and I suggest neatening the edge and pressing a single folded hem for a light weight finish. no reason not to do a narrow double turned hem though, if thats’s your preference!
You could also choose to make a binding for the armhole! This is a great finish, just measure the armhole, and cut a piece to fit using the same process as the neckline.
Competition now closed
Want to win a copy of “Stitch to style”?
Answer this question in the comments below
“Who is generally believed to have introduced the use of bias cutting in fashion?”
Apologies for delayed announcement!
The winner is Deborah Manser, please get in touch via e mail so i can get your copy sent out!
Congratulations, hope you all enjoy the final tonight!