Chevron bias top tutorial from “Stitch to Style”

Want to rustle up your own bias cut top as seen on ep 1 of the Bee?

Bias Top- #GBSB episode 1

Image © Jenni Hare

This pattern is available exclusively in the 4th official BBC tie in book “Stitch to style Once you’ve grabbed your copy, you can use my step by step tutorial to ensure you get a perfect result. If you’d like to win a copy of the book, there’s a competition question at the bottom of this post too!

Step 1- 

Trace off the 3 pattern pieces and use the cutting layout in the book to cut out your pieces in fabric

CL’s tip- you must cut the pieces out from a single layer of fabric.

To get a perfect chevron, cut one side, then lay it onto the fabric right side up,  lining up the stripes until you get a perfect chevron. Lay your pattern piece in this position upside down to cut out the second mirrored piece

Tips for cutting the chevrons

Step 2-Stay-stitch your necklines

If you skip this stage, you WILL get a stretched out neckline!! the seam allowance is just 1 cm around the neck, so stay- stitch at 0.7 cm just inside the seam allowance and you won’t have to unpick!

Stay-stitching- #GBSB

 

Step 3- creating the chevron seam at the centre front and back

Ok, so this is the most challenging part. You will need to have cut it correctly! You will need to pin, and if you’re using a really tricky fabric like the georgette in the book, then you may want to tack! I know i rarely tack, but for this seam, you want to get it sewn correctly first time. Watch this super short video for pinning tips.

Once you’ve seamed the centre front and back. you’ll need to neaten those seams. I’d suggest either an overlocker, or a simple zig zag once seam allowance is trimmed to 1 cm. Then press to one side. If you are working with something sheer like our georgette version, then try a hairline seam like this

hairline seam finish #GBSB bias cut top

Step 4- join the shoulders and the side seams

Pin and then sew the back to the front at the shoulders and side seams. be careful not to distort these seams as the bias will make them slightly stretchy! Neaten and press the seams as you did for the front and back

joining the shoulders and the sides #GBSB chevron top

Step 5- Make the bias facing

This method of finishing the neckline has all kinds of names, basically it’s  strip of self fabric bias, sewn into a ring, filed and pressed along the width and the sewn onto the neckline and turned all the way inside creating a clean finish at the neckline.

Home sewers are more used to a binding that’s visible, and to the method whereby there’s a fold along the either edge of the bias.

This technique however, is what you’ll see inside many shop bought clothes, as it is very hanger friendly, and gives a great finish.

Here’s a set of step by step mini vids to explain the technique.( i will edit into one video soon!)

Join the bias strip into a ring

Press the bias band in half along the length, with the right sides facing out

Mark the quarter points on the bias neckband

Pin the band to the neck, matching up the corresponding quarter mark points. Start with the neckband seam at the centre back.

Press the bias away from neckline, with seam allowance pressed flat.

Roll the neckband completely inside the neckline like a facing, and press into place, making sure not to over-stretch the curve of the neckline.

Machine the inside folded edge of the bias, ensuring your stitches are an even distance from the neckline!

Stitching the bias facing

Step 6- hemming the armholes and the lower edge

There’s  a 1 cm hem allowance allowed, and I suggest neatening the edge and pressing a single folded hem for a light weight finish. no reason not to do a narrow double turned hem though, if thats’s your preference!

single turned hem #GBSB bias top

You could also choose to make a binding for the armhole! This is a great finish, just measure the armhole, and cut a piece to fit using the same process as the neckline.

Bound armhole option #GBSB bias top

This really is a versatile pattern, and although it doesn’t look as gorgeous on me as the model, I loved wearing it in Sydney recently!

Bias top out in the wild..#GBSB

Competition now closed

Want to win a copy of “Stitch to style”?

Answer this question in the comments below

“Who is generally believed to have introduced the use of bias cutting in fashion?”

Apologies for delayed announcement!

The winner is Deborah Manser, please get in touch via e mail so i can get your copy sent out!

Congratulations, hope you all enjoy the final tonight!

CL :)

Tags:

50 Comments

  • The Thrifty Stitcher

    04.07.2016 at 14:38

    Hello,

    Apologies for delayed announcement!

    The winner is Deborah Manser, please get in touch via e mail so i can get your copy sent out!

    Congratulations, hope you all enjoy the final tonight!

    CL :)

  • Sanne

    03.06.2016 at 17:05

    Madeleine Vionnet.
    I hope, I have a chance to win, because I’m from Germany.

  • Aisling McSweeney

    25.05.2016 at 13:08

    Madeline Vionnet!

  • Francesca

    25.05.2016 at 12:39

    Great tute, thanks. But I don’t know why you need to zig zag the seams – they are cut on the bias after all.

    not trying to enter the comp as I have the book…

    • The Thrifty Stitcher

      31.05.2016 at 14:14

      Hi,

      The viscose georgette used for this project frayed to bits even on the bias, and in my experience all bias seams shed a bit, so we felt it best for beginners to be instructed to neaten. Some more experienced sewers may chose to ignore this

      best wishes:)

  • Faith A.

    24.05.2016 at 05:58

    Madeleine Vionnet .
    Fingers crossed!
    Really enjoying the new series, as ever .

  • Uzma Fazal

    23.05.2016 at 20:20

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Vanessa Cross

    23.05.2016 at 18:25

    Madeleine Vionnet
    Would really like to have ago at making this top

  • bauwens natasja

    23.05.2016 at 07:29

    Madeleine Vionnet. Really liked this top on the show (thank God we also have BBC2 broadcast in Belgium)

  • Caroline Brown

    22.05.2016 at 21:09

    Madeleine Vionnet! Can’t wait for the next episode :-)

  • Ann Mansfield

    22.05.2016 at 19:14

    It was Madeleine Vionnet in the 1930s , love to make the chevron top.

  • Orla Kelly

    22.05.2016 at 08:28

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Anne Hill

    21.05.2016 at 13:28

    Madeleine Vionnet. Great tutorial!

  • WENDY ASHWORTH

    20.05.2016 at 19:23

    madeleine vionnet. Love the programme, enjoy every minute . Thank you for the chance to win a copy of the book.

  • Carol Claxton

    20.05.2016 at 16:28

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Pamela Blackman

    20.05.2016 at 15:59

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Deborah manser

    20.05.2016 at 14:27

    Madeleine Vionnet. Thanks for the chance to win!

  • Ann martin

    19.05.2016 at 22:19

    Madeline vionnet in the 30’s I believe

  • Fi Lewis

    19.05.2016 at 12:06

    Madeleine Vionnet.
    I love how her style is described, “urbanely sensual approach”, who wouldn’t want to be that!
    Thank you for the tips, I should really try some bias facing! Have always been scared of it.

  • Kate Bell

    19.05.2016 at 06:22

    Madeleine Vionnett.

    This top is gorgeous. I never realize the possibilities of using a stripe on bias to make a Chevron.

  • Andrea

    18.05.2016 at 21:28

    Madeleine Vionnet popularised bias cutting although it’s obviously been around before.

  • Carmel Gealy

    18.05.2016 at 18:18

    It was Madeleine Vionnet. X

  • Katie Clark

    18.05.2016 at 14:54

    Madeleine Vionnet introduced Bias Cutting in fashion, would live to win!

  • Sobia Naseer

    18.05.2016 at 14:35

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Carol Milton

    18.05.2016 at 12:35

    Bias cutting is thought to have been pioneered by Madeleine VIonnet.

  • Katie M

    18.05.2016 at 11:27

    This is a really beautiful top. Madeleine Vionnet introduced bias cutting in the 1930s.

  • Patricia North

    18.05.2016 at 11:03

    Madeleine Vionnet is accredited with the introduction of the bias cut. Her work was inspirational.

  • Maggie Cawthorn

    18.05.2016 at 07:22

    Great tutorial and it looks great on you, love your choice of fabric. Watching the programme I was wondering why the pattern can’t be matched. At the side seams? I would love to win and make this, like the others Madeleine Vionnet.

  • Liz Clark

    17.05.2016 at 23:26

    Madeleine Vionnet was the one

  • Rebecca Matthews

    17.05.2016 at 23:19

    The answer is Madeleine Vionnet. I love your top. I do like bias cut clothing but I’m not so keen on sewing it! Time to get back in the bias-cutting saddle perhaps?!

  • Victoria Osborne

    17.05.2016 at 22:05

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • camelia de bruin

    17.05.2016 at 21:42

    Loved the show last night and thank you for the tutorial here for this top! I really want to get the last book and I am taking a chance also here :). I think the answer to the question is “Madeleine Vionnet”

  • Caroline Edwards

    17.05.2016 at 19:08

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Tessa Ware

    17.05.2016 at 17:11

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • helen bodger

    17.05.2016 at 16:06

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Helen metcalfe

    17.05.2016 at 14:35

    Thanks for the tips! I was really impressed with the contestants work last night!
    I would love to win a copy of the book – Madeleine Vionnet used Bias-cut

  • Emily Trenwith

    17.05.2016 at 14:08

    I think it was Madeleine Vionnet. Would love to win a copy of the book!

  • carron lee

    17.05.2016 at 14:03

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Eleonora Carlotta Valenti

    17.05.2016 at 12:13

    Madeleine Vionnet is known to have introduced the bias cut in fashion in the ’30s.
    She used to drape the fabric directly on a smaller mannequin, thanks to the bias cut she was able to create mermade dresses and Grecian-style dresses.

  • Helen

    17.05.2016 at 12:08

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Frankie carson

    17.05.2016 at 11:32

    Madeleine vionnet

    Finally my GCSE textiles is paying off

    Love this top

    Frankie

    Knitwitsowls@Gmail.com

  • Carolyn Dawson

    17.05.2016 at 09:40

    Madeleine Vionnet introduced biased cutting

  • Elizabeth Connolly

    17.05.2016 at 06:55

    Bias cut garments are usually accredited to Madeleine Vionnet in the 1930s

  • Esther Linares

    16.05.2016 at 23:29

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Alison McIntyre

    16.05.2016 at 22:58

    I think it is Madeleine Vionnet :)

  • Louise Campbell

    16.05.2016 at 22:47

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Sandra Wood

    16.05.2016 at 22:44

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Cierha Burton

    16.05.2016 at 22:32

    Madeleine Vionnet

  • Sally Kendall

    16.05.2016 at 22:12

    Wow what a fab top! It’s Madeleine Vionnet aka queen of the bias. Thanks for the chance to win!

  • Jenny Holmes

    16.05.2016 at 22:11

    Madeleine Vionnet popularised bias in women’s clothing. Loved the programme tonight and the top is excellent!